Saturday, January 17, 2009
Drive train and painting
A good friend of mine has been kind enough to weld the pieces of my slip yolk together (see previous posts to how these were made). A good solid weld was achieved without any distortion of the universal joint arms.
This is the slip yolk after a bit of grinding of the weld bead as it spun on the lathe, which should help to keep it balanced.
The slip yoke connected to the original prop shaft, completing the drive train.
Series wound electric motors, like the kind I plan to use in my conversion, are susceptible to over-spinning and destroying themselves if power is applied while not under load (i.e. if the accelerator is pressed while the car is in neutral). To protect the motor, I would like to have a lock-out so the motor cannot be energized when the transmission is in neutral. Here I have drilled a hole in the transmission casing to receive a spare reverse indicator switch, which I will use as a neutral indicator switch.
On the gear selector shaft, I have added a set of copper sleeves to push against the switch when in the mid position. Pieces of regular copper plumbing did just the job.
The final assembly, and it works.
In researching methods of DIY car painting, I found many reports of people having good success using a roller to apply the paint. Using a front fender as a test piece, I am applying a first coat of paint using a high density 4" roller. The paint is thinned about 15%. It looks like there are lots of bubbles here, but most disappear before the paint dries.
The trick to this method is a color sand between coats to remove imperfections, and the occasional bubble that didn't pop. This is the fender after after about 4 coats and some wet color sanding.
After another two coats, more sanding, finishing with 1500 grit paper, a buffing with rubbing compound, then polishing compound, it looks not bad.